Xbox has had a rough few years — studio closures, price hikes, cancelled exclusives. The ROG Xbox Ally X is Microsoft's bet on what comes next. But does it actually deliver? And can it dethrone the Steam Deck as the go-to handheld for gamers? Let's break it down.

 Watch the Full Breakdown  https://youtu.be/2Pj0tKh8uhU?si=if7MOeretI_2hDwx

What Is the ROG Xbox Ally X?

The Ally X is a Windows-based gaming handheld running something called Windows FSE (Full Screen Experience)—a special edition of Windows optimized for handheld play. It strips down background OS processes on boot to free up RAM for gaming and loads you straight into an Xbox-skinned interface. It feels like an Xbox — until an update dialog box reminds you it's still very much a Windows PC.

Game Library: More, But With Catches

This is where the Ally X gets complicated. You can't play every Xbox game you own. Only Play Anywhere titles (like Gears of War 5) cross the divide between console and PC. Game Pass Ultimate subscribers also unlock Xbox Cloud Gaming for titles like Assassin's Creed Shadows. Out of the box, you do get 3 months of Game Pass Premium — a solid head start. Plus, being a Windows PC, Steam and Battle.net are fully accessible.

Build, Feel & Display

At ~750g (about 1.5 lbs), the Ally X is chunky but comfortable. The textured Xbox-etched grips distribute weight well and won't slip even mid-snack session. The 7-inch 120Hz IPS display is mounted at a slight angle, which Xbox claims enhances viewing. It's not OLED — and at this price point, that's a fair criticism — but in everyday use, it's genuinely fine.

A few design quirks: the menu/start buttons sit awkwardly around the right thumbstick, the Armory Crate and Xbox home buttons are essentially redundant, and the back buttons sit just a bit too far for smaller hands.

Performance: Ally X vs Steam Deck

The Ally X earns its stripes here. In turbo mode (plugged in), it hits 62 fps on Cyberpunk 2077 at medium settings at 1080p—something the Steam Deck simply can't match. But turbo mode requires a power source, and juggling performance modes manually is a chore. Windows pop-ups mid-session don't help either.

The Steam Deck, by contrast, keeps gaming neatly compartmentalized from desktop mode—desktop only appears when you ask for it. It's also more moddable, has a stronger community, and a significantly lower price tag.

The Bottom Line

Choose the ROG Xbox Ally X if performance and PC/Xbox game library access are your top priorities.

Choose the Steam Deck if you want a reliable, affordable, community-backed handheld without the tinkering tax—especially a used one while you wait for next-gen iterations.

Let's cut straight to it — most budget gaming controllers make you feel every dollar you didn't spend. The MOJHON Rainbow 3 is trying to change that, and honestly? It's making a pretty convincing argument.

Watch the Full Review:  https://youtu.be/qoIYmZOTRkI?si=5cBBI6fchFDUrvSb

What's in the Box

For under $99, you get a semi-translucent RGB shell controller, a 2.4GHz wireless receiver, a braided USB-A to C cable, an alternate circular D-pad, and swappable thumbstick heights. That's a solid out-of-the-box package before you've even turned it on.

Build & Buttons

The translucent faceplate isn't just for aesthetics — it catches the 14 configurable RGB zones in a way that genuinely looks premium. Down on what we're calling the chin bar, you'll find dedicated buttons for turbo remapping, macros, and profile switching — features you'd typically only see on $150+ pro controllers.

The D-pad, bumpers, and back buttons all use micro switches for that satisfying tactile click. The ABXY buttons are a hybrid — micro switch internals with a rubber membrane — so they're responsive but slightly softer than a pure mechanical feel. On the back: two grip-crease buttons for standard players, plus two more at the top for claw grip users. FPS players also get trigger locks to tighten the travel distance.

The Tech That Actually Matters

Two features stand out at this price point:

1. 2000Hz Wireless Polling Rate Your standard Xbox or PlayStation controller polls at 200–1,000Hz wirelessly. The Rainbow 3 doubles that at 2,000Hz. Latency tested around 17–18ms — competitive, not record-breaking — but the joystick feel is noticeably smoother, which is a real advantage in racing games and precision shooters.

2. Capacitive Joysticks Forget Hall effect. MOJHON uses capacitive sticks — metal coils detect position with zero physical contact. No contact = no wear = no stick drift. They feel slightly different in tension compared to standard Alps sticks, but you'll adapt within a session. They're also fully replaceable with the included options or third-party tips.

Add a companion app with full keyboard key mapping (a dream for MMO players) and a 1000Hz gyro for fine aiming, and the Rainbow 3 is genuinely stacked.

Bottom Line

The MOJHON Rainbow 3 isn't just a budget controller that looks impressive — it packs tech that legitimately outspecifies controllers costing three times the price. If you want drift-proof sticks and ultra-smooth wireless input without the flagship price tag, this one deserves serious attention in 2026.

Is 2000Hz polling overkill for casual gaming? Drop your take in the comments below.

Everyone thinks a proper gaming/cinema room costs a fortune. It doesn't—it costs strategy (and a willingness to ask stores about open-box deals). Here's exactly how I built a full projector-based game-and-movie room for under three grand, part by part. Honest Toolsplit take, no fluff.

Watch the full build here: https://youtu.be/lRHqt-a6qY0

Start With the Space

Before you spend a dollar, nail the fundamentals: a projector or screen, a sound system, and somewhere to sit. Everything else is a bonus. The single most important thing about your room? Light control. Paint the wall a dark shade (light gray works) to kill ambient reflections, and you've already leveled up your image quality for free.

The Projector: Your Biggest Choice

For a room that does both movies and games, you need decent contrast (3,000:1 to 5,000:1+ for good black levels) and low input lag. Twitchy competitive gamer? Aim for 5ms or lower. Casual? Up to 17ms is fine.

I scored an open-box BenQ X500i—4K, 240Hz support, and a ridiculous 4.2ms input lag. It ships with a Google TV stick to solve the no-built-in-OS issue. Retail is ~$1,500–1,600, but open-box saved my cheap blood. One con: a faint hum at 4K 60Hz. Honestly? I never notice it mid-game. Budget alternatives: the Optoma GT Derby (casual only, ~60ms) or ViewSonic PX71 4K.

The Screen

You can just use a dark wall for near-zero cost. But if you invested in a good projector, get a real screen. I went with a 92" Silver Ticket fixed-frame (1:1 gain)—resisted the urge to go bigger so I'm watching characters, not hunting for them. Setup took ~20 minutes. Just find your wall studs before drilling (no floods, no live wires, no dying).

The Sound

Aim for a 5.1, 7.2, or higher surround. Two routes: buy a plug-and-play system or DIY it with a secondhand amp and speakers off Marketplace (Klipsch and Bose classics are bulletproof and cheap). I lucked into a friend's Samsung Q990D—an 11.1.4 Dolby Atmos soundbar with a wireless sub and rear speakers. Elevate the surrounds in the back corners (I used Pearl Smith stands, ~3–4 ft, with cable management). Bottom line: a cheap 3D-surround soundbar OR a DIY setup — whatever fits your budget.

Seating & Ambiance

I already had a couch, so I used it (translation: I was being cheap). For mood, add lighting — but don't overdo it. I ran two Govee floor lamps and a TV backlight, synced via DreamView, so the colors bleed off-screen into the room. Calibrate the white balance, and it genuinely makes the space feel bigger.

Bonus: The Workspace

With the leftover budget, I hit a pawn shop and grabbed a height-adjustable table + ergonomic chair for ~$220, a Kurui 27" curved QHD monitor, an Epomaker AK820 Pro keyboard, and a $28 ergonomic mouse (so nobody borrows my good one).

Final Word

That's a full cinema-grade gaming room—hunted, haggled, and assembled for under $3,000. Scale the budget up or down to fit your wallet. The gear matters; the deal hunting matters more.

If you've gamed for more than five minutes, you know 8BitDo—they make solid controllers at prices that don't hurt. Today it's the 8BitDo Ultimate 3-Mode Controller for Xbox. But don't let "for Xbox" fool you: this thing quietly does way more than the box lets on. Honest Toolsplit take.

▶️ Watch the full review here: https://youtu.be/2QIVxcxiYg8

What's In the Box (This Part Matters)

You get the controller, a charging cradle that houses a 2.4 GHz dongle receiver, a suspiciously long USB-C to A cable (there's a reason), and—the sweetener—a 1-month Xbox Game Pass Ultimate code. Considering what Game Pass costs now, this controller is already handing you value before you've pressed a button. And with the last two quarters stacked (Ninja Gaiden, Call of Duty, and Outer Worlds), that free month actually means something.

The Feel & The Features

Comfortable textured grips, and — the headline — offset Hall effect joysticks that are highly drift-resistant. (Dual Shock, I'm looking at you.) The buttons are clicky, the D-pad is solid, the triggers are responsive, and you get micro-switch bumpers plus a 3.5mm jack with a dedicated mute switch.

The real pro-tier stuff: start, select, profile buttons, and rear back buttons—so no excuses when you're throwing that Apex match. Everything's tunable in the 8BitDo app—button mapping, trigger sensitivity, dead zones—the kind of customization mainstream base controllers make you pay extra for.

The Three Modes

• Mode 1 — 2.4GHz dongle: Lives in the charging cradle. Leave it docked and it auto-charges + auto-sleeps; lift the controller off and it powers on and connects instantly. Slick.
• Mode 2—Bluetooth: Flip the rear switch, hit sync, and it pairs with Android, your MacBook, PC, phone—basically anything with Bluetooth.
• Mode 3 — Wired Xbox: And here's the catch. To play on an actual Xbox console, you must plug in via that long cable. Wired only.

The One Real Gripe

That wired-only Xbox mode. A controller literally named "for Xbox" should connect to the Xbox wirelessly—that's the biggest (and honestly, only major) downside here.

Where's the saving? (The Honest Trade-offs)

At ~$40, something's got to give — but it's not the important stuff. No glowing LED rings around the sticks (the pricier 2C models have them). No adaptive/resistance triggers like Sony's. That's it. You still get Hall effect sticks, back buttons, and profile saving—features the base Xbox and PS controllers charge more for.

Bonus: internal rechargeable battery—~20 hours on Bluetooth, ~15 on 2.4 GHz—so no more feeding AA batteries into an official Xbox pad (a recurring cost that quietly adds up).

The Verdict

Multi-connect to nearly everything, Hall effect sticks, back buttons, app-based pro customization, real battery life, and a Game Pass month—all for around $40 (often less on sale). The wired-Xbox limitation aside, this is an easy recommendation and a genuine controller-of-the-year pick for "cheap and good."

Got a controller that beats this on value? Settle it in the comments.

Nothing kills the vibe faster than fumbling with a charging cable every single time you get in the car. Or worse—a wireless CarPlay setup that keeps dropping mid-drive. If your CarPlay situation is more headache than convenience, there's a tiny box that fixes it. Here's the honest ToolSplit take.

▶️ Watch the full walkthrough here: https://youtu.be/g9gMaSIXFV4

First — CarPlay, Quickly Explained

CarPlay is Apple's integration that puts your phone's core functions right on your car's stereo. It comes in three flavors:

1. Wired — plug your phone into the designated USB port every time.
2. Wireless (free) — some automakers build it in at no cost.
3. Wireless (paid) — and then there are companies like Mercedes making you subscribe to a feature that's already built in. Yeah.

If you're stuck on wired, or your factory wireless keeps disconnecting while you drive, that's exactly the gap this adapter fills.

The Fix: AutoCast U2 Air Pro

The AutoCast U2 Air Pro is a small box that converts your existing wired CarPlay into wireless. The one requirement: your car has to already support wired CarPlay. Instead of plugging your phone in, you plug this little adapter into that same port — and now every time you get in the car, your phone connects automatically. No wires, no fiddling.

What's in the box:

• The AutoCast U2 Air Pro adapter
• A USB-C cable
• A stick-on mount (most people skip this and just tuck it away — handy if you swap it between cars)
• Some reading material, for the brave

Does It Actually Work?

Short answer: yes. This new version is 30% faster than the previous one, and it's genuinely plug-and-play. Setup works like Bluetooth pairing — you power it on, it broadcasts a name, you pair your phone once, and that's it. It remembers your phone, so from then on it connects the moment you're in the car.

The standout feature for households with more than one iPhone? There's a button on the adapter that instantly disconnects the current phone and switches to a second one. One press. No menu diving, no re-pairing.

If It Won't Connect

A few rare cars have trouble connecting. If yours is one of them, AutoCast provides a URL where you can report your vehicle — and you can push firmware updates through your paired phone to improve compatibility. So even the edge cases have a path forward.

The Verdict

The AutoCast U2 Air Pro solves a genuinely annoying, niche problem: it cuts the cable and makes CarPlay wireless, reliably, with a dead-simple multi-phone switch. If you're Team iPhone and tired of wires (or flaky factory wireless), this is absolutely worth a look.

One caveat: this is a CarPlay solution. Android Auto users have their own separate adapters—this particular box is for iPhones.

Your car can't talk. But a good dash cam? That's your perfect witness—for the sideswipe you didn't cause or the mysterious dent that appeared while you were grabbing groceries. In 2026, the bar for "good" just moved, and the 70mai T800 is a big reason why. Here's the honest ToolSplit take.

▶️ Watch the full review here: https://youtu.be/3zIN--Bdl6I

What Makes the 70mai T800 Special

The headline is coverage. This is a true three-channel system—front, rear, and interior—all recording at once. Most setups tap out there, but the T800's real flex is dual 4K on both the front and rear cameras. Plenty of "4K" systems only give you that sharpness up front and quietly downgrade the back. Not here — the rear runs a genuine IMX678 sensor for real 4K, not upscaled fluff.

Both front and rear use Sony Starvis 2 sensors built specifically for low-light clarity, and the cabin camera is a 1080p infrared unit that switches seamlessly to night vision—so even a pitch-black interior stays visible.

The Hardware

The front unit is a little chunky, but for good reason: it packs a 3-inch IPS screen, a rotating internal camera, and physical buttons (no touchscreen — more on that later). There's a micro SD slot supporting up to 512GB cards, and the box is generous: a trim remover tool, spare sticky pads, long USB-C cables, and—on some bundles—a circular polarizing filter to kill windshield glare.

Install & Smart Features

Installation is genuinely painless. Mount it center-top near your rearview mirror, and instead of the permanent adhesive, use the included electrostatic stickers—they cling with static, so you can reposition or remove the camera with zero sticky residue or glass damage. (Just tuck wires away from your airbags — trust me on that one.)

Once powered, you get standout smart features:

• ADAS voice alerts for lane departure, forward collision, pedestrians, and even a "car ahead has moved" nudge at lights
• AI motion detection and optional 4G connectivity for remote monitoring, live location tracking, and instant collision alerts to your phone while parked
• A defogging mode that's a lifesaver in cold weather
• A local Wi-Fi app that makes downloading footage fast and painless

Footage-wise? HDR keeps skies from blowing out, colors look rich and natural, and the "Night Owl Vision" turns grainy darkness into a genuinely usable image.

The Downsides (Honest Take)

Two gripes. First, it's not cheap — around $340–$350 USD. Second, no touchscreen. You navigate via buttons, which some folks will find clunkier than tapping a screen. Neither is a dealbreaker, but you should know before you buy.

The Verdict — and Alternatives

The T800 is a premium three-channel system with dual 4K, Sony sensors, and a genuine suite of AI features. If you want total front-back-cabin coverage and you're okay paying premium money, it's a very strong contender for the best 4K dash cam of 2026.

Shopping around? If interior recording doesn't matter to you, a two-channel 4K system will save cash. On a tighter budget, 2K front-only cams still cover the essentials. But for complete coverage in one package — the T800 earns its spot at the top.

You've seen the transformation videos. A car rolls in looking factory-fresh and rolls out looking like it fell out of a movie. But here's the question nobody answers clearly: are you looking at a vinyl wrap, paint protection film (PPF), or the new hybrid that combines both—color-change PPF? And more importantly… which one should you actually put on your car?

Let's break it down the honest ToolSplit way.

▶️ Watch the full breakdown here: https://youtu.be/PFnaLlCjPtU

Vinyl Wrap: All About Style

Vinyl wrap is a thin, flexible film made from PVC and color pigments. It sticks over your factory paint and instantly changes the look of your car—matte, gloss, whatever mood you're in. The best part? You can peel it off whenever you want and go back to stock.

• Durability: Roughly 3–5 years
• Install: Usually a dry installation — placed, squeegeed, heated
• Job: Transformation, not heavy protection
• Cost: The more affordable option

If your goal is a new color without a permanent commitment, vinyl is your friend.

PPF: All About Protection

Paint protection film is a different animal. It's made from TPU, it's typically transparent, and it's built like armor—designed to absorb hits from rocks, road debris, and chemical etching. It even has self-healing properties: light scratches disappear with a little mild heat from a heat gun or hot water.

• Durability: As long as 5–10 years
• Install: Wet installation (more on that below)
• Job: Serious, long-term paint protection
• Cost: Significantly more than vinyl

Color-Change PPF: The Best of Both Worlds

Here's where it gets cool. Manufacturers combined the two — a fully pigmented protection film that gives you a new color and hardcore protection in one product. As Kilani from Killand's Automotive puts it, you're no longer choosing between style and protection. You get both.

Color PPF resists rock chips, road rash, UV fade, and chemical etching while keeping that deep, uniform, factory-style finish. Add in hydrophobic properties—water and mud just roll off instead of sticking—and you've got the cleanest upgrade going.

The Real Difference: Wet vs Dry Installation

This is the part most people miss. Vinyl wraps are usually a dry install — stick, squeegee, done. PPF is a wet installation, and it's a whole different craft.

Because PPF is thick, installers use water-based solutions (and no, it's not just water — there are shampoos and additives mixed in) to help the film sit and reposition perfectly. It demands a clean, dust-free environment, specialized squeegees, steamers, patience, and serious skill. Pros often dismantle parts of the car to tuck the film in so cleanly it looks like it came that way from the factory.

Translation: a job that takes 3–4 days in vinyl can take double in PPF—sometimes 80–90+ hours of work time—because you can't rush the healing process.

PPF vs Vinyl Wrap: Quick Verdict

Factor Vinyl Wrap PPF / Color PPF Material PVC + pigment TPU Lasts 3–5 years 5–10 years Self-healing ❌ No ✅ Yes Install Dry Wet (skilled) Protection Light Heavy-duty Cost Affordable Way more expensive

So, Which Is Actually Better?

It comes down to your goal. Want an affordable, reversible style change? Vinyl wrap wins. Want maximum protection and a finish that lasts a decade? PPF is worth every extra dollar. Want both—style and armor—and you've got the budget? Color-change PPF is the cleanest way to upgrade your look without sacrificing your paint's integrity.

Whatever you choose, the golden rule stands: find a quality installer. With PPF especially, the film matters less than the hands applying it.

Thinking about turning your car from this into that—without the headache of a full repaint? Tinstaller—a what a wrap promises. But before you commit, let's do the honest Toolsplit breakdown: the real pros, the real cons, and whether it's actually worth it in 2026.

▶️ Watch the full breakdown here: https://youtu.be/evF6OkITItA

First — What Is a Car Wrap?

Not the chicken kind. A car wrap is vinyl film applied over your factory paint to change its color. There's also Paint Protection Film (PPF)—a thicker polyurethane layer that's usually transparent, takes more rock chips and scratches, and even has self-healing properties (heat it up and light scratches vanish). PPF protects; vinyl transforms. Different tools, different jobs.

The Pros ✅

1. Best of both worlds. Want a new color but not ready to commit forever? A wrap lets you switch it up while your original factory paint sits safe underneath. Bored later—or told to get rid of it? Strip it off and you're back to stock. No sanding, no body shop, no drama.

2. Some built-in protection. It won't match PPF, but vinyl shrugs off light scratches. And it's modular—scratch one panel, and you replace just that section instead of repainting the whole car.

3. Stays cleaner, longer. Add a ceramic or hydrophobic coating on top, and water just rolls off, carrying dirt with it. Less scrubbing, more shine from a distance with way less effort.

The Cons ❌

1. Maintenance has rules. Remember — this is plastic. No harsh household detergents, no abrasive brushes, no automatic car washes with bristles. Clean microfiber only, and a proper wash routine.

2. Paperwork you can't skip. If you change your car's color, tell your insurance (so there's no argument at claim time) and notify the police (so a "white car that's now black" doesn't look stolen, and your papers still check out). Do this before it becomes a problem.

3. Fuel and sun are enemies. Let fuel drip on the side while filling up, and it'll react and discolor the vinyl. The same with parking in harsh sun long-term—heat slowly cooks it, causing color shift, warping, and bending.

4. Bad paint = bad idea. This is the big one. If your paintwork was already poor, non-factory, or peeling, removing the wrap can take that paint with it. Garbage in, garbage out.

So—Is It Worth It?

If you want flexibility, some protection, and the freedom to change your look without a permanent commitment, a wrap is genuinely worth it. Just find a quality installer — a bad lay job will wreck your paint and your wallet. Do it right, and you get the best of both worlds.

Which do you prefer—the car before or after the wrap? Your call.

I’m Ethan, the nerd behind Toolsplit. I love Batman, Marketing, but I love Gadgets more.

Toolsplit, a Canadian based YouTube platform, isn’t about spec sheets. It’s about how tech impacts our lives — the quirks, the fails and the “aha” moments. We examine culture through unique, relatable tech content, with editorial focus on mostly emerging consumer tech.


Why We Do What We Do?

1. Authenticity That Sells Fast: We mix humour with hands-on, non scandalous reviews. Trust transfers to the products we feature.

2. Proven Tech Influence: Our content doesn’t just entertain; it drives clicks, purchases, and long-term brand visibility.

3. Premium Audience: 67% of viewers are buyers actively “searching” for tech worth investing in. These aren’t casual scrollers.

4. Staying Power Content: Videos are optimized for search, meaning your product keeps getting discovered long after launch.

Follow us as we focus on being the most recognized Consumer Tech Review platform for the emerging/alternate/indie niche!